The North End's Cannoli War

Boston's oldest residential neighborhood. Cramped, brick, Italian since the 1920s, and locked in a decades-long cannoli war between Mike's Pastry and Modern Pastry on Hanover Street. I take Mike's side (florentine cannoli, chocolate-dipped shell) but walk to Modern for the torrone, because loyalty is a virtue and flexibility is a survival skill.

Hanover Street is the artery — narrow, loud with conversation, espresso in thimble-sized cups that would alarm a cardiologist. North Square holds the Paul Revere House, a 1680 wooden colonial, and the Old North Church on Salem Street is where the lanterns were hung. Standing in the nave you feel the weight of a building that participated in history.

Neptune Oyster on Salem Street — the lobster roll (hot, butter, griddled split-top bun) is a secular religious experience. The wait is long. Bring a book or make friends in line.